Digging The Hole and Placing the Tree

If you've performed the percolation test as outlined in Site Selection then the hole has been dug and it's time to situate the tree. Otherwise, perform the perc test and be ready to plant tomorrow. Take a look at the tree you have purchased. Near the container rim where the tree trunk meets the soil is an important point. Above that point you have trunk that's used to being exposed to sun, wind, weather, etc. Below that point is the underground portion containing the root which is generally protected from the extreme elements. The key to planting the tree right is to make sure it is planted no deeper than it is while in the container. Meaning, if you were to paint a mark on the tree at the point where the trunk goes into the ground make sure that point is at ground level (not above or buried below ground level) when you plant it. When you are finished planting and the soil has settled you would like trunk/root junction to be at grade. Use the native soil excavated for the percolation test to backfill around the roots. If this soil is of poor quality replace it with regular garden soil from an undisturbed area in your yard.  It would not hurt to add some organic material to this backfill. Peat moss added in would help to retain moisture in the root area. Once filled in around the roots you can water in and firm (not stamp!) the soil around the roots.

Removing the Stake

If the tree stake begins to wobble due to the wind you can "stake the stake". Driving a couple of small ground stakes into the adjacent soil around the tree at 4,8 and 12 o'clock and tying the ground stake ropes TO THE TREE STAKE will help to anchor it in. Regardless of when you bought the tree keep the tree staked and tied to the bamboo (or other type of stake) for the rest of this growing season and throughout winter.  Let the stake naturally rot off. The tree may flex a bit in the wind and that is GOOD!  Wind is what builds the trunk of the tree. A trunk being flexed by the wind will build diameter (caliper) to compensate for this bending much more quickly than one that is not exposed to wind. This is what you want to happen. If upon removing the stake the tree leans a little bit that is OK. The tree will straighten up as it builds caliper. If the tree bends over like a rainbow when you take off the stake then restake it to the bamboo for another growing season and take stake off next year. Refer to the staking and pruning module of Tree 101 for advice on how to stake properly

Mulching the Tree

Mulching around a tree is a good idea for conserving moisture and providing nutrition as it decays. But with most good things there comes a time when too much becomes a bad thing. Such is the case with mulch. Many people think more is better and pile it around the tree in what we call a "mulch volcano". A thick layer of mulch around the drip line of the tree is followed by an even thicker layer piled up around the trunk. This is potentially a bad situation. Earlier in this module we stated that the above ground portion of the tree is subject to wind, weather, sun, etc. As such it was never meant to be subjected to the constant wet environment that is in the middle of the mulch volcano. That environment is a fantastic breeding ground for fungus and other pathogens that can attack the tree. Destructive insects also find cover in mulch so keep the mulch away from the trunk. The purpose of mulch is to retard water loss. It also holds water well in its own right. Roots grow in search of water. Searching for water is their prime directive. In that search they will even grow upward (against gravity! If the roots grow upwards they can grow and wrap around the buried trunk and strangle the tree. Keep deep mulch away from the tree trunk. Yes you can put it on the ground around the drip line but heaping it up the trunk is inviting disaster.

Type of Mulch

Mulch comes in a variety of shapes, sizes and grades. We're going to divide it into two main groups: composted and non-composted. Non-composted mulch is the type in bags sold in many places. It is dry to start with so there is not much microbial action decomposing it yet. When you apply non composted mulch around your trees it absorbs water and begins to decompose. The decomposition process actually steals needed nitrogen from the tree. So if you put down new mulch put a bit of fertilizer on to help combat this. Composted mulches have usually been sitting around at the mulch place for a few months. Microbes have been working at decomposing the organic matter for a while and the mulch will not steal nitrogen. This is usually delivered using a truck rather than in bags.  Many landscapers have access to Comtil a composted sludge product from municipalities. This is a great product to use as mulch. It does not smell, it is black in color (which many people like) and it releases micronutrients to plants as it decomposes. In the nursery we use Comtil. You can always tell where it was dumped when it was delivered. The grass or trees are always several shades darker green than everywhere else.  The only drawback is that you have to arrange for delivery by a private carrier (or pickup truck).  The additional cost of transportation may be worthwhile if you need a large amount.